Wildfires force Sicilian winemakers to grapple with climate change
The deadly wildfires raging in Sicily in July put the effects of climate change on tourism into high relief, as thousands struggled to flee the island while firefighters took on what they estimated were some 650 fires over a three-day period in late July. The fires also shined a light on another industry affected by climate change: wine. People in the city complain about the temperature, the heat, the smoke, but it is nothing compared to people who dedicate all their life to growing almonds, olives, grapes, said Dario Vento, a guide who gives bicycle tours of Sicilys landscapes. In recent decades, Sicily has become Italys largest wine-producing region by landmass. Its Mediterranean climate and volcanic soil make it an ideal home to over 98,000 hectares of vineyards . These wines from the Mediterranean transport you with one sip Its also leading the pack in innovation. While Sicilys wine industry of the mid-20th century was more concerned with bulk than flavor leading to a boom in inexpensive Sicilian wines in Europe and beyond the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s predicated a return to quality. This shift came first with a focus on foreign grapes, such as chardonnay and merlot, but by the early 2000s, Sicilys own carricante, frappato and nerello mascalese came to define what has now become a widely celebrated and internationally regarded viniculture. Rising temperatures in southern Italy linked to climate change, however, pose a growing risk to wine production. Extreme dry heat including recent heat waves across the Mediterranean and increasingly powerful wildfires, such as the ones in Catania and Palermo this summer, threaten to derail the still-developing industry and represent an obstacle to business as usual. Many of Sicilys winemakers focusing on indigenous grape varieties know this, which is why coalitions of wine producers are taking steps to reduce their carbon footprint in the vineyard and in the winery. Donnafugata, a fifth-generation wine producer with a focus on authentic Sicilian wines using indigenous nero davola and grillo grapes, emphasizes sustainability. According to owner and CEO Jose Rallo, the wine producer doesnt use any chemical herbicides or fertilizers, takes steps to fight erosion and generates clean energy in its production. Rallo is also on the board of Assovini Sicilia, a coalition of 91 island wineries that promote Sicilian wine and are committing to using lighter bottles made from recycled Sicilian glass. Lighter bottles are less energy-intensive to manufacture or ship. Agriculture is responsible for a serious quantity of emissions, so we have the responsibility to improve our way of cultivating the vineyards and producing our wines, Rallo said. Electric tractors help vineyards fight climate change Grapes are sensitive to heat . Depending on when theyre exposed to it, the result can be decreased yields or lower-quality, less-acidic grapes. Grapes can also dry out when sunburned, which can result in brown, bitter wines. This July, which was deemed the hottest month ever on record , laid heat problems bare for Sicily wineries. (Heat records go back to 1880.) Alessio Planeta, the co-owner of Planeta Winery, a centuries-old institution that owns wineries throughout five territories on the island, said that this years high temperatures will negatively impact this years harvest by 25 to 30 percent compared to the average year. Planeta is another winery committed to sustainability efforts; its partnering to produce wine bottles made from recycled glass collected on the island bottles that weigh in at only 410 grams. Lighter wine bottles are less energy-intensive to manufacture or ship. Planeta wasnt affected by fires this time around, though in the past some of its vineyards, especially in the forest-surrounded Etna region, have been affected by smoke taint. To prevent nearby fires from burning up their vineyards, wine producers have to tend to their crops frequently, removing dry brush and, where possible, creating firebreaks, or gaps in vegetation that act as a barrier between a potential fire and the vineyards. It takes a lot of labor work and investments, but its very important to do it, Rallo said. While bigger, more established wineries such as Planeta and Donnafugata have the ability to do this preventive work regularly, the same measures arent always available to smaller farmers with fewer resources. We are lucky that we ... have everything clean, said Patricia Toth, a winemaker with Planeta. But things have to get better at the regional level. Climate change wreaks more havoc on wine growers with spring frost And as fires get stronger, more preventive work is needed to protect vineyards. Climate change is bringing hotter temperatures and drier winds to areas like Sicily, conditions that facilitate large, difficult-to-control fires. In 2012, when Vini Franchettis vineyard on Mount Etna was directly affected by wildfire, half of the chardonnay, grown at high altitudes on the side of the active volcano, was lost. Letizia Patane, U.S. and Asia export manager for Vini Franchetti, said the grapes were totally burnt. Even the vines that werent damaged by fire that year were affected by smoke taint. One of our wines, a red, was tasting like smoke because the grapes were in contact for a long time with all the environment, which was all burnt, Patane said. Instead of the 30,000 bottles of chardonnay Vini Franchetti expected to produce that season, they produced 12,000, Patane said. The result was a year of work lost, as the fire happened just before harvest. When fires hit vineyards such Vini Franchettis, on Mount Etna, or in other wine-rich but isolated areas, its often up to the wine producers themselves to manage them. Italys forestali, the law enforcement officers in charge of managing forest fires, have to prioritize houses and people, and they dont often have the resources to make it to these difficult-to-reach vineyards in time to curb a rapidly spreading fire, Patane said. On some nights, it has taken Vini Franchetti workers more than six hours to contain the spread. Vineyard losses from fires carry over into the rest of the year and can affect future production. After a fire, Patane said, it can take workers months to prune the vines to restore harvest patterns. If a vineyard is destroyed by fire, Rallo estimated, it could take between five and seven years before there could be quality production there again. How satellites help wineries pick new climate-friendly sites Morgan Tingley, an associate professor of ecology and evolutionary biology at the University of California at Los Angeles, said that a hotter world due to climate change is a drier one as well. More of the globe is more at risk of having a fire start than at any previous time, and those fires are now also more likely to be bigger, he said. Vegetation, especially, gets drier at higher temperatures, leading to increased fire risk. Hannah Cloke, a climate scientist, natural hazards researcher and professor of hydrology at the University of Reading in England, similarly sees the relationship between climate change and wildfires as one of heat waves and drought. There are the fingerprints of climate change in these fires, Cloke said. Even in those places that are prepared for fire, it can overwhelm people very quickly. In a warming world, vineyards in already fire-prone areas such as Sicily and elsewhere in the Mediterranean are under increased risk. But while Mediterranean climates are predisposed to burning, according to Tingley and indeed, fires in Sicily are not a new phenomenon they are bound to continue getting stronger. Rachele Fiorelli, a tour guide in Palermo, said that in Sicily, In past seasons, the fires were generally concentrated in forests around the city, but nothing compared to [July]. Sometimes, I hear people say, Oh, maybe its not global warming, Alessio Planeta said, recalling Sicilys July fires. There was global warming in Sicily that week, I can tell you. Sicilys wines offer Mediterranean warmth and volcanic depth. Several importers are bringing us wines from small family producers worth seeking out. The major names are Planeta and Donnafugata. For a taste of volcanic complexity, look for the wines of Tenuta Delle Terre Nere and others labeled Etna Rosso or Etna Bianco. Dave McIntyre Sicily, Italy, $15 This is nero davola, made in a natural style with minimal intervention in the winery. Fresh and lively, theres tension, or energy, on the palate, with effusive blackberry and raspberry fruit. Lovely wine, from certified organic fruit. The same producer makes a delicious white from the catarratto grape as well. ABV: 12.5 percent. Imported by Omni Wines . Distributed by Impero Wine Distributors . Sicily, Italy, $17 Nero davola makes a medium-bodied red that tastes a lot like the heftier syrah. That makes it a great red wine for summer meals such as grilled burgers or steaks. Give it a few minutes in the refrigerator door to help lift the aromas. Kudos for the eco-friendly light bottle. Alcohol by volume: 13 percent. Bottle weight: 390 grams (Light). Imported by Taub Family Selections . Distributed locally by Republic National . Sicily, Italy, $18 Sometimes a good wine just needs to get the job done, but with a little added flair. This juicy red blend based on Sicilys own nero davola is ideal for casual weeknight meals such as pizza, pasta, even grilled fish or meat. ABV: 13.8 percent. Distributed by M. Touton . Prices are approximate. For availability, check Wine.com , Wine-searcher.com and the websites and social media feeds of the wineries, importers or distributors. You can also ask your local retailer to order wines from the distributors listed. (Wine recommendations are from previous Dave McIntyre stories).